July 2020

In the last post about the Basque Country, I promised that it would be the first one in the series and more will follow. When I saw 400 pics in the folder from this July trip I seriously wondered whether I should split it in several parts like I did with Camargue (three posts about a week trip!), but finally I decided against it. Probably because this itinerary was too chaotic to organize properly or maybe it was the RAW vs JPEG issue that didn’t allow me to select as many pictures as I’d like to. Whatever. Here is our 7 days trip in Spanish (and a tiny bit of French) Basque Country yet again.

Sare & Espelette

One day I will learn to make beautiful illustrated maps but it won’t happen any time soon. Our first stops were in Sare, Espelette and Ainhoa – three amazing villages (from our favourite list of the most beautiful villages of France!) with the examplary Basque architecture. I will never get tired of photographing them!

Visiting Espelette had been one of my goals since I learnt the existence of the Basque Country and its specialty – Piment d’Espelette. A red pepper which has all the flavours of a ture pepper but without the spicy touch. Cords of dried pepper hanging alongside the windows is the typical postcard view of the Pays Basque – indeed, it does look cute and authentic. As for us, we alsways make sure to have a pot of Piment d’Espelette among our spices.

Bilbao

We didn’t stay long in France before diving into Spain. Bilbao is the capital of the region, and it had also been a long while that we dreamt of going there together. We were lucky to escape the heat of July and enjoy Bilbao in rainy gray weather – these colors suit it perfectly! One of Bilbao’s main iconic places is the Guggenheim Museum but for better or for worse, neither of us is a big fan of modern art, so we skipped visiting the museum – admiring its architecture was enough for us. As a bookworm, I felt some sort of excitement upon seeing the Spider sculpture (called Maman!) so thorouglly described by Robert Langdon in Dan Brown’s “Origin“. It reminded me of times where I used to have a separate blog for literary places – sometimes I wonder if I shouldn’t bring it back to life.

Getxo

It took us two days of innocence before realizing that in Spain wearing the mask was compulsory everywhere, even on the streets – in France such restriction would be introduced only several months later. Luckily, the policement were kind enough to simply warn us and leave our wallets alone but the lesson was learned. Things to show our offsprings…

Bermeo

In the first post about the Spanish Basque Country I already mentioned the huge difference between the French and Spanish parts of Euskadi. In France it feels like a touristy landmark “to see” whereas in Spain is just a normal life without any particular commercialization. It’s neither good nor bad but the contrast is quite striking. I guess you can already spot the difference by seeing the pictures of the both parts.

San Sebastian –  Donostia

We love San Sebastian so much that we have already made a separate article about our visit there in 2017 (my god time flies!) Still, coming back was a great joy. It was a day with the biggest heat (+38C) of the week and we were determined to spend it on the beach. Which we did. It was a beautiful and a very peculiar day of chill, sea, pinxos (so damn expensive in comparison with other towns!). Fun fact: in August 2022 we would have already had 5 weeks of +39 and I guess it will only get worse over the next years.

Garaio Park

One of the best things about travelling by van is arriving to a certain place by night, sleeping over and in the morning discovering it from zero. Like a beautiful surprise.  This is what happened with us in the Parque Provinvial de Garaio – waking up and seeing THIS nature around was like a gift without a reason.

Vitoria-Gasteiz

On this trip we tried to find out whether it was possible to survive exclusively on tapas, pintxos and sangria. The answer is yes, but it won’t be easy. On the day 4 we started suffering and craving for a simple home food. However, we had to walk this road until the end before the content of our bodies reached the point of 70% of sangria instead of water.

While putting this article together, I realized how many points on our itinerary didn’t make it here or how many of them we didn’t even take on picture. For example Guernica or a lake god knows where, where we had a magnificent swimming pause. I do hope to keep them in my memory though!

Salvatierra

As a person without much of experience in terms of traveling in Spain, I was very happy to explore further than the towns close to the French border and Barcelona (coming soon!). My inner bookworm was searching for the Don Quixote atmosphere which would fit perfectly in the scenery of yellow fields and endless windmills…

Kontrasta

Antonana

This is probably one of the most beautiful stops we made in this trip. A field of sunflowers, an empty village and swallows flying over the roofs.

On the road to Estella

On our way to the next destination we crossed a tiny bit of another region – La Rioja. The excitement I felt can be compared to the discovery of a new continent. That’s what happens when you spend too much time on a lockdown. :D

Estella

Also, I’ve never seen that many travelers following the Camino de Santiago. On foot or with donkeys, alone or in small groups, I admire such endevours. As someone who, as the years pass by, prefers riding a bike than good old walking, I find people who cover on foot huge distances absolutely crazy. In a good way.

On the road to Pamplona

Putting aside stereotypical sceneries of Spain (I already mentioned Don Quixote and all that jazz), Spain can boast with very diverse landscapes and nature. I would expect seeing moody misty valleys in England but definitely not in Spain. It’s hard to believe we were dying of heat just the day before and here we were – shivering in our coats.

Pamplona

Our last big stop before coming back to France was in Pamplona. It did’t leave any big impressions, I suppose we were simply very tired and looking forward to coming back to Pau. Still, we were struck by how lively and crowded Pamplona was especially by night, despite the covid restriction. They had to cancel their annual festivities connected to the bull fighting and I can’t really say that we much regretted it. It didn’t prevent the crowds from gathering in the streets with their drinks though!

Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry

We were glad to be back to France and see again the white houses with red roofs. In Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry by chance we attended a typical for this area Basque festival with music and dances – it contransted joyfully with the gray gloomy sky.

And the final chord of this adventure was another “most beautiful village of France” – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Unfortunatelly, it was so crowded that we didn’t spend there too much time and even if it was obviously very pretty, only three pictures will make it to this article. This is very untypical for us!

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Gosh, I admit that writing this post wasn’t easy. First, as we don’t put any “useful” information any more, I didn’t know what to say apart from my “aaawws” and “ooowws” about each and every town we crossed. Secondly, this little trip is quite far in the past for me to share exactly the impressions from every step on the way. So consider these lines as the chaotics road notes. Nothing more.