April-May 2024

The final article about our three-week trip to Albania will be a collection of the memories and impressions that we’ll hold close to our hearts for a long time to come. It was our first time in the Balkan countries, and it was an incredible experience—an immersion into a different world, learning about a new history and way of life, and getting a glimpse of a whole new culture. We did our best to discover as much as possible in such a short period. I’ve talked about the entire adventure in detail in previous articles; here, I want to share only the most unforgettable moments. This is not a ranked list—the order is random. Let’s go!

1. Albanian Cuisine

One of the main things we look for when we travel is food. In Albania, we were more than satisfied—delicious and affordable, Albanian cuisine is amazing. It’s also the kind of cuisine you can easily enjoy every day without feeling overwhelmed, with plenty of options suitable for vegetarians. Thanks to Italian influences, Albanians also know how to make a fantastic pizza! My all-time favorite breakfast would have to be byrek, bought from any bakery in the country, paired with a bottle of Dhallë—a salty, yogurt-based drink. Albanian cuisine was something I missed the moment we arrived at Tirana airport on our way back home…

2. Meeting the Sunset in Tirana

After a day of exploring the city, we stepped out of the elevator at the Sky Tower in Tirana. Located on the top floor of the office center, it offers a 360° view of the city—literally. The bar is set on a platform that slowly rotates around its axis. It took us a while to realize why the buildings seemed to be changing positions! It was the perfect way to wrap up an intense day—the sunset, the colors, the lively ambiance—all of it was worth the slightly overpriced cocktails.

3. Hiking in Rodonit Cape

Albania is full of picturesque natural spots, but I believe there’s something special about the first experience. After our frustrating troubles with the car rental, Rodonit Cape was the first outdoor place we visited where we finally felt at peace. It perfectly matched the spirit of the place. Completely alone, surrounded by nothing but nature (and a couple of bunkers), it was a truly magical moment.

4. Reading Ismail Kadare While Driving in North

Discovering local authors is part of our pre-travel ritual, and Ismail Kadare, being Albania’s most prominent writer, was our choice. Kadare was a prolific author (I say “was” because he passed away in July 2024—just a month and a half after we returned from Albania!). We almost randomly chose his book Broken April, which explores blood feuds in northern Albania. It was an intense experience—reading about these dark, violent customs while driving through the mountainous rrafsh. The book, by the way, is brilliant.

5. Albanian Museums

One of the things we loved about Albania was its museums. We didn’t visit many, but the four we did (Bunk’Art 2 and Studio Kadare House in Tirana, and the Ethnographic Museum and Ismail Kadare’s House in Gjirokastra) were excellent. Admittedly, I had expected “old school” museums with long, boring texts under various items, but the Albanian museums surprised us. They were modern, interactive, not overwhelming, and, in fact, incredibly immersive.

 

6. Exploring Antigonea Under the Rain

Like with the museums, we visited four archaeological parks, but the first was Antigonea, near Gjirokastra. It’s not the most impressive park in Albania, nor does it have the best infrastructure, but that’s part of its charm—it doesn’t feel like a museum; it’s simply part of the landscape. An insanely beautiful landscape, where we were the only people in the world under a heavy sky filled with thunder and lightning. I had to include Antigonea in this list—the rare feeling of being just a tiny particle in something vast and eternal is unforgettable, and this is the place where it can happen.

7. Ottoman Houses in Gjirokastra

In addition to the gastronomic experiences, discovering new architecture is something we truly value in our travels. So, it’s no surprise that we were absolutely smitten by the gorgeous Ottoman houses in Gjirokastra. Having never been to Turkey or other countries shaped by Ottoman history, Albania was our first encounter with this stunning architecture—and it left a strong impression. It’s touching to see how Albanians are reclaiming what was once theirs, restoring the beautiful structures that were confiscated during Hoxha’s dictatorship. The way they are preserving this incredible legacy is inspiring, and the architecture—so different from what we’re used to—looks absolutely breathtaking!

8. Lin & Lake Ohrid

It was love at first sight with Lin and Lake Ohrid in general. Like Rodonit Cape, it’s the perfect place to let your spirit wander, soak in the stunning shades of blue and green, and simply unwind. Lake Ohrid is a true natural gem, being the oldest lake in Europe and home to unique flora and fauna. If I had to choose one spot for a relaxing week with a single base, it would be Lin. Painting, reading, walking, meditating, eating (and oh, eating so well!)—it’s the place to do it all.

9. Empty Roads of the East

Speaking of meditation. As we spent hours driving through Albania, and it’s something I want to acknowledge separately. From North to South, the country offers breathtaking views, but we hold particularly warm memories of the empty roads in the East. Green valleys, forests, and the outlines of mountains—all without a soul in sight, except for the occasional lonely shepherd with his herd of goats. These hours of astonishing beauty were soothing, comforting and somehow put so much into perspective! We cherished every single one of them. And, for the record, Albanian roads are improving, though some are still quite bad (the road to Koman Lake is officially the worst!).

10. Butrint

The second archaeological park that made it to this list is Butrint National Park. Not at all as “hidden” as Antigonea, we had an incredible stroke of luck to come there at the end of the day by quite a dull weather – the park was almost empty. Considering that it’s the major sightseeing place on Albanian Riviera, it may not always be the case. Like with Antigonea, its natural surroundings is as impressive as the “museum part”, which here is rich and inspiring – one can observe centuries of evolution of a small peninsula, from an important defense and trade place to a mass tourism spot it is today. Hypnotizing ways of history

11. Walking in the Langarica Canyon

A huge Ottoman bridge, the mountains on the horizon, picturesque thermal baths, an amazing canyon – no need to sell any further. We thought to spend there several hours, but ended up spending almost a day. In fact, I’m surprised we managed to collect the will and leave this amazing place. No matter how long or short you plan your trip to Albania, make sure to include Langarica Canyon on your itinerary!

12. Turquoise Waters of Adriatic and Ionian Seas

No introduction needed—turquoise waters, wild and empty bays, and gorgeous nature speak for themselves. Despite some reservations (which I discuss in detail in a separate article about the Albanian Riviera), I can’t deny that diving into those crystal-clear waters, where you feel like a part of the maritime world, is one of the simplest and most powerful pleasures a human can experience. Albania offers many beautiful spots to enjoy, and although they are becoming less wild, they are still there.

🐔 Bonus: Chickens!

Before wrapping this article (and the whole Albanian series!) up, I want to pass my greetings to all the wonderful chickens we met on this trip. Being parents of three wonderful hens, who we missed so much during our absence, we have a special chicken-radar that in Albania buzzed very often, thus bringing us much joy. In general, those who have a soft spot for farm animals, will be pleased to see so many of them. We definitely were!

I can’t believe this series is over. The trip was beautiful and intense, but writing these articles was no less so. Although it might look like I grumble much about quite a few things we noticed about Albania, it doesn’t deny the fact that it’s a surprising country, which has its own complicated history, lives through its own complicated present, and is a rich place full of beauty to explore. Don’t hesitate to do so!

Also, don’t hesitate to leave a comment if you found this post useful or if you’d like to share your thoughts about Albania. We are always happy to read your feedback.

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