So, we contacted our car rental company to ask if it was possible to drive through North Macedonia, and it was! As we discovered, this particular road in North Macedonia is heavily used by Albanians too, so the border crossing didn’t pose any problems whatsoever. We just had to buy a green card for our car (and there are plenty of small shops at the border for this purpose). The moment we entered North Macedonia, we felt an enormous relief, as anyone who has switched from a gravel to an asphalt road would understand. It feels like a gulp of fresh water, doesn’t it? Thus, we jokingly “unlocked” our 40th country (though spending several hours on the road until the next Albanian border does NOT count!) After this day mostly spent in the car, we finally arrived in Lin.

First thing in the morning, we walked from our guesthouse to a viewpoint with an amazing panorama of Lake Ohrid, complete with another of the iconic bunkers scattered across Albania. The setting was beautiful and inspiring, and we could easily imagine spending an entire holiday immersed in this mesmerizing landscape.

We took a thorough walk around the town, indulged in a delicious feast at Helga’s Guesthouse and a local restaurant, and felt a much-needed rest for our souls. After three gloomy days up north, the warm, gentle spring sun returned to lift our spirits.

Evening sketching

One of the local highlights is the Byzantine mosaic from the 6th century. Visiting it was a bit tricky, as the keeper doesn’t always guard it outside the tourist season. We had to call him and arrange a meeting, only half sure he understood us. The mosaics are absolutely breathtaking and well worth the tiny hassle.

Albanian entertainments 

At one point, we pushed on to Pogradec but weren’t too impressed, despite the stunning views surrounding the lake. Pogradec felt more like a bustling town, whereas we were craving the peace of a village. So, we quickly retreated back to the serenety of Lin.

Leaving Lin was bittersweet, but we had much more to explore! Our first stop was Lake Prespa, where we were greeted by beautiful, tranquil landscapes and a very authentic way of life. It was evident that tourism hadn’t impacted this area as it has in other parts of Albania, allowing us to experience some untouched villages. We were also excited to be so close to Greece, which had become one of our favorite countries after two amazing weeks on Crete.

Our next destination was the town Voskopojë. It is a small village that in the 18th century used to be quite prosperous. We were attracted to this town because it had an extraordinary number of beautiful churches and frescoes. Unfortunately, upon arriving it turned out that the big part of them was closed for renovation works. The whole town gave the impression of a big construction site but in a good way. In Voslopojë we devoured a huge Lakror – a must-food in this part of Albania. It was so enormous that it sufficed for our time in Korçë too, hence no restaurant recommendations.

Honestly, we did’t have much expectations for Korçë. We knew that Korçë used to have an amazing old bazaar, which was once the heart of the city. However, with economic growth and tourism, the city center was transformed into a polished and renovated pedestrian area, and the bazaar was relocated. Don’t get me wrong, we enjoyed the small city center, but it doesn’t take more than 10 minutes to explore every street. The old bazaar was what made Korçë interesting, and without it…

That said, Korçë has something else that we absolutely loved: the amazing manors. Known as “kolonats”, these elegant, historic homes reflect the city’s rich past. Built by wealthy merchants and landowners in the 19th and early 20th centuries, they feature distinctive architectural styles that combine local and European influences. With their gorgeous woodwork, courtyards, and gardens (at least what we could see from the streets), these beautiful residences blew our minds. So, if you ever get to Korçë, make sure to stroll along the main streets outside the city center for a delightful treat for your eyes!

After a long walk in Korçë, it was time to go. This town will hold a high place in our personal rating of Albanian experiences. Once again, we had a long drive ahead, and once again it was green, beautiful, and peaceful. We will recall those hours spent on the road with great gratitude. Our stop for the night was the Hotel Nemërçka, not far from Përmet. Though absolutely mediocre, it served as a good starting point for our next day’s adventure.

Langarica Canyon is a stunning natural wonder featuring dramatic landscapes and thermal springs. The canyon is carved by the Langarica River, creating towering cliffs, narrow passages, and beautiful rock formations. Visitors can hike through the canyon, enjoy the warm waters of the Benja thermal baths, and explore the numerous caves along the way. This is exactly what we did. Ideally, one should take water shoes to walk through the river but as we had none, we had to do with our hiking boots. That was fun!

We walked really deep into the canyon to allow ourselves some frivolous behavior 

That was heavenly. I do hope the ever-growing number of tourists won’t spoil this natural landmark and that its preservation will be properly managed, but as of May 2024, it was a piece of paradise on Earth. We felt so blessed swimming in the warm thermal waters, just like Japanese monkeys. In that moment, I guess we were spirit animals of each other.

And that was it for the eastern part of Albania. One more hour on the road and a meal pause awaited us on the way to Gjirokastra, another place where we could have easily spent an entire trip. But we’ll talk about that in the next article, which will cover two UNESCO World Heritage towns—Berat and Gjirokastra. As always, stay tuned! We are always happy to read your comments and thoughts, so don’t hesitate to drop us a line. :)