After visiting the Blue Eye, we passed through Sarande on our way to Butrint. By this point, we were both overwhelmed and tired  with mixed feelings about everything we were seeing, but our goal for the day was still ahead – Butrint National Park. It was getting late, the weather was uncertain, and when we saw the entrance fee (€10 per person), we hesitated. Were we really interested in another archaeological park so close to closing time? The answer turned out to be a firm yes. I’m so glad we didn’t give in to our doubts because Butrint is incredible. It’s like peeling back layers of history—Greeks, Romans, Byzantines—all left their mark on this small peninsula. The site itself is stunning, worth visiting for its natural beauty alone, not to mention the view of the Greek island of Corfu! We absolutely loved the place, the museum, and the fact that we had the park almost entirely to ourselves.

In the article about Lake Ohrid, I mentioned ancient mosaics promising that it wouldn’t be the last ones—and here’s the proof: Butrint has it all—mosaics, an amphitheater, ancient walls, a museum and more. And just look who’s welcoming visitors—turtles, perfectly at home in this peaceful landscape. Out of the four archaeological parks we visited, Butrint is the one I would recommend 100%.

Now, about those mixed feelings. After such a packed day, we had to face the first downside of a place rising in popularity. Finding accommodation in Ksamil was our first challenge. Well, finding accommodation wasn’t the issue—finding something that wasn’t in a half-built hotel with identical beds in identical cubicles was where we struggled. In our first article, I shared our disappointment and, honestly, our fear when we saw a huge construction site along the coast, with hotels sprouting up like mushrooms. Ksamil was the epicenter of this frenzy. The next morning, we explored some of the local beaches, only to feel a deep sadness at seeing these beautiful places being transformed into a buzzing beach industry. If only it were of good quality—but it’s not there yet. The prices, however, have already adjusted to the rising demand.

I don’t want to give the impression that we hated the Albanian Riviera. Hate is too strong a word. The thing is, we’ve never been big fans of resorts and beach holidays. It’s clear that Albania is experiencing a sort of boom that will eventually be regulated. But for now, it feels like a construction site that’s gradually chipping away at little bays, natural gems, and stunning landscapes. But I’m sliding into a sermon again…

The only proper stop we made was at Borsh Beach. I don’t remember the exact reason we chose it, but the experience felt surreal—a huge, empty beach, half-finished hotels peeking out from among the trees, and cows licking their calves right there on the sand. It was too cold for us to swim, but the scenery was beautiful, even though it carried a hint of melancholy.

A tiny village called Qeparo was there to counterbalance that sadness. This is the charming gem I was referring to—somehow, this place has retained its authenticity. No communist-era buildings, no identical hotels have made their way up there. On the other hand, it’s not well-preserved, and according to our guide, these beautiful (though somewhat dilapidated) houses can be bought for next to nothing. Qeparo feels like a medieval mountain village by the sea—it almost felt like we were in Italy or Croatia (or at least how I imagine Croatia), but no, we were still in Albania! This place is a firm recommendation from us. Unlike Himarë or Saranda, Qeparo has a soul.

Speaking of Himarë, we arrived there after dark, though we were treated to an amazing sunset just before. We didn’t stay long, just enough for dinner at Lefteri’s Tavern, which I wholeheartedly recommend, however, given the area’s popularity, the prices are higher than anywhere else in Albania. As for accommodation, it was relatively okay—we stayed at Alex Bed and Breakfast. Honestly, I don’t think you’ll find a better quality/price ratio on the Albanian Riviera.

The next day marked the official beginning of our quality time on the Albanian Riviera. The sun was back, and we felt at last the urge to dive into those blue waters. Impatient to enjoy the beach, we couldn’t wait for the “perfect” spot, so we headed to the nearest one—Gonia Beach. Even though it was just a regular beach with the usual chaise lounges and umbrellas, it was still an amazing moment. There were only a handful of people, so we had our own little piece of paradise. Pure bliss!

Gonia Beach

On our way to the next destination, we passed through the picturesque village of Vuno, which reminded me of a seaside version of Berat. With its square white houses and countless windows, the resemblance was striking. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to stop and explore—argh, the frustration of a tight schedule! Even after three weeks in the country, it still felt like there wasn’t enough time.

Vuno

In numerous articles and guides, we read about Gjipe Beach—another secluded bay with paradisiacal waters, far from civilization. But, as I’ve mentioned before, Albania is changing, and Gjipe Beach is no longer a hidden gem. It’s now a popular spot with a large parking area where you’ll naturally be charged for staying. From there, you’ll need to take a short hike to reach the beach, so be sure to wear suitable shoes. Don’t get me wrong—the place is breathtaking—but be prepared to share it with others.

Dhërmi

Now, let’s talk about the highlight of our Albanian Riviera experience and our favorite beach spot: Dhermi. First of all, the town itself is very charming, but, just like with Vuno, we didn’t have time to explore it properly. We stopped for lunch at Luciano (their seafood is to die for) and then headed straight to the beach. As expected, we encountered the same construction sites that seem to be everywhere, giving the place an almost eerie, ghost town vibe. But then, we walked a bit further to the bays and discovered the wild, beautiful spot we had been hoping to find on the Albanian coast.

This was, without a doubt, the best place for us to enjoy the sea. As you can see, it was so empty that we didn’t even need any fabric to cover our bodies. 😀

I wish that moment could have lasted longer, that we hadn’t had the car troubles, and that we could have spent two more days on the Riviera. But misadventures are also part of traveling and even add their own charm. Our last stop for the day was in Vlorë, a place where we ended up spending more time than we would have wanted. However, Vlorë had something nice in store for us.

Panorama Llogara

If you’re wondering why the name of the park is, well, so vague, here’s the explanation: it’s located in a military area that was once heavily protected—and in some ways, it still is. We read in a guidebook about a naval base that was supposedly interesting to see, so we decided to check it out. No luck there; it seems things have changed here too. However, when we arrived, we discovered an archaeological park—our third one of the trip! Before entering the zone, our passports were taken, and we were forbidden to take pictures of the road, but the park was still open to visitors. Strange, I know. But honestly, the place is beautiful. The Karaburun Peninsula is a stunning natural area with bays, green valleys, and breathtaking views on the Albanian coast. If only Hoxha hadn’t decided to place his military bases there! I couldn’t find much information online about this park, so if you’re up for a mini-adventure, go ahead!

I’m sad that our experience in Vlorë started on a bad note. While I still feel the town lacks soul, with its imposing avenue lined with towering hotels, in the end, we did feel a sort of reconciliation with the place. We even had the honor of eating at the same pizzeria—Brooklyn—three times. Thanks to Italian influences, Albanians know how to make great pizzas, and I was determined to have my last pizza here before heading back to Tirana. We stayed at Agora Bed and Breakfast in Vlorë, where we discovered that Albania (or is it just Vlorë?) is now experiencing power cuts. From what I’ve heard, it’s advised not to swim in Vlorë, as the water is badly contaminated. My honest opinion: don’t spend too much time in Vlorë, but if you have to, it might just grow on you.

Between Vlorë and the Karaburun Peninsula

Oh, the irony. What was supposed to be our first stop after visiting Tirana turned out to be the very last point on our itinerary, just hours before our flight back home. Still, I’m very happy we managed to visit it, even though we kept a close eye on the clock the entire time. This is the fourth archaeological park we’ve visited on this trip, and it’s definitely the biggest, best maintained, and naturally, the most visited. It’s no surprise—there are SO MANY things to see! Like the other parks, the environment is stunning. Apollonia sits on a hill, offering beautiful panoramas of the surrounding landscape. Originally, it was a city founded by the Greeks way back in 588 BC, and it has undergone many transformations over the centuries.

When you visit Apollonia, you can wander through the ruins of what used to be a bustling city. There’s a well-preserved amphitheater, the remains of temples, and an agora (the old marketplace). There is also a great museum on the site packed with amazing artifacts, statues, mosaics, and other artworks. I can safely say that Apollonia deserves a full day of exploration, as four hours were by no means enough.

Panorama from Apollonia

And that’s it. The entire tour of Albania is now online. All our favorite places, thoughts, impressions, honest opinions, and recommendations—it’s all here. Be sure to check out any part that interests you—whether it’s the North, East, Berat and Gjirokastra, Tirana, or of course, the Albanian Riviera. Don’t miss the main article with general tips and key moments of organization. The map with all the spots is also here, and now it’s officially complete.

Thanks for traveling to Albania with us—it was three weeks filled with beauty, delicious food, and plenty of musings.

As always, don’t hesitate to leave a comment if you found this post useful or if you’d like to share your thoughts about Albania!