Norfolk is a blank region in the travel guides – that was the reason number one why we wanted so much to go there. Another reason was an Instagram account of a “gentleman-farmer” who was showing that very empty British countryside atmosphere everybody dreams about (unless you already tried to live there longer than 6 months). We are easy victims of the visual inspiration, that’s how we ended up in a car struggling our way from London towards Norfolk in order to spend there a nostalgic and romantic week-end.
We expected something similar to the vast plains of Northumberland, but despite the obvious similarity, they were still different. If Northumberland is associated with green, Norfolk is definitely yellowish-brown.
Our Itinerary:
Day 1
Norwich
The trouble with British medium-sized cities is they strong resemblance of each other. At some point you start confusing the images you saw in York, Chester or Canterbury. Norwich is not an exception. We left the car on the multi-storied parking, had some sandwiches and off we went for the walk. It is a nice towns with a couple of cute streets including Quay Side and Elm hill….
….with a Norwich Castle which looks too cubicle to be Medieval…
…Norwich Cathedral with a beautiful cloister inside.
…and The Royal Arcade.
All in all we spent around 3 hours in Norwich before hitting the road again. Make sure to have a sandwich and a coffee in WARINGS Lifestore – ridiculously cheap after London standards in a cute half-café, half-shop.
Cromer
50 minutes from Norwich by car – and we are in Cromer. It is a lovely seaside town, which reminded us of our times up north. They say that Sir Arthur Conan Doyle got the inspiration for “The Hound of the Baskervilles” while staying in Cromer and listening to the local legends.
The same décor – a long pier, surfers, kids in the rubber boots catching crabs, beach huts, a huge salted caramel ice-cream and, naturally, Fish & Chips. The kind of places where one can easily spend 5 hours just chilling. Have a look at the theater at the end of the pier – it is said to be one out of two last pier theaters in the world.
And a huge ice-cream, of course! (We were struggling to finish it, to be honest)
Happisburgh
The final stop for the first day was at the most authentic B&B we ever stayed in the UK. On our way there we noticed that there was strictly no telephone connection – total phone detox. We even were lucky to witness a dramatic pheasant fight for a female – what a pleasure to stop in the middle of the countryside road and stay there as long as needed.
The Manor Barn B&B stole our hearts. Once again we realised how cool the British countryside is as long as you don’t live in it. (Sorry, but I think we are townies)
All necessary attributes for a perfect night stay were there including a kettle in each room and a fireplace!
Day 2
But the best thing… A homemade English breakfast in the morning. With an optional Marmite (didn’t risk it second time though).
Happisburgh is a picturesque place with a gorgeous lighthouse.
By the way, the Happisburgh coast is known for its coastal erosion, which makes it a village disappearing bit by bit. This is why it’s not recommended to walk on the edge – it can literally collapse under your feet.
Horsey Gap
And now, ladies and gentlemen, let me present you the reason of the trip number three. Seals.
Our experience of seals resumes to a dead seal in Denmark, couple of swimming heads in Iceland and a seal feast on the Farne Islands. I really believed that we saw a lot of them on the Farne Islands, but I was mistaken. The best place (probably ever) to see such an incredible amount of seals, who let a human approach so close, is definitely Horsey Gap with its dunes till Winteton-on-Sea. You will literally see thousands of them. In December and January they come to the beach to deliver pups – yes, those fluffy white balls of happiness. Even if they say it’s best to come in winter months, in the beginning of April we were absolutely not disappointed.
How it all looked.
Honestly, it is a spot not to miss. Well, you see it yourself.
Just in case you wonder HOW close you can approach the seals…
Exhausted after so much emotions, we were dying for the most typical pub lunch. Which we had in the closest pub Nelson Head. Fish pie, sausages and mash with a ginger beer with a face burning from the wind– is that called heaven? (only pintxos and cold sangria can beat it!)
Horsey Windpump
The next stop was near the Horsey Windpump (protected by National Trust), where we took a Ross Wildlife Boat Tour – it’s an hour tour by boat with a charismatic captain telling all about the local birds (there are some really rare species!).
Ross talks with so much passion that even if you are not interested in birds, you will be fascinated by what you will see (if you are lucky!).
The number of people was perfectly adequate for the size of the boat and (!) dog-friendly!
Great Yarmouth
Described in “David Copperfield” AND in “Robinson Crusoe”, Great Yarmouth appeared to be very similar to what we saw thousand times living up north – like Redcar or Scarborough. A promenade, fish & chips, amusements. Anyway, we were too exhausted by what was going on during the whole day.
I realize Norfolk has much more beautiful spots and towns, so already looking forward to being back! If you need more inspiration though, make sure to check these amazing articles about Norfolk (and not only!)
Budget
Filling the car tank: 15£
Coffee and sandwiches in Norwich: 6£
Fish & Chips in Cromer: 11£
Ice-Cream in Cromer: 6£
B&B: 55£
Lunch in Pub: 25£
Boat Tour for two: 20£
Parking fees: 7£
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