This is going to be a very personal and quite and outdated article that we couldn’t bring ourselves to write for over four years. It is going to be about our very first and definitely not the last expatriation in a very curious town on Estonia-Russian border called Narva.
The house that used to be ours for two years
A lot of time passed since those lovely two years and as I’m typing this words, we live in our fourth location, this time in France. Still, everything started in Narva and we feel shame for putting it off for so long and taking forever to publish this crucial chapter from our lives in our blog, which in a certain way was also conceived there. We wrote a bunch of articles about Estonia and six articles about our expatriation life in England, so the time has come to getting back to where it all started. You will, hopefully, notice the difference between our first and last articles about this small but amazing country in terms of blogging and especially photography – it’s four years of evolution we are talking about!
While composing this article in my head, I was really struggling what to write about – about the town itself and its particularities? Shall we publish as many photos as possible with detailed captions? Or shall we just tell about our expat life in Narva from more personal point of view? Finally we decided on showing you the town the way we saw it while keeping our private jokes to ourselves, because I’m not sure that you will find stories about my first mashed potatoes (happened in Narva!) much captivating. We hope you are ready for a retrospective guided tour.
Several words about Narva
Narva is the third biggest town of Estonia after Tallinn and Tartu, but it doesn’t really mean that it is big. Not at all. With its population less than 58 thousand persons, Narva is mostly Russian-speaking town, which is partially explained by the fact that you literally can see Russia from your window.
Here we came to the most important particularity of Narva – its proximity with Russia. Proximity not only geographic, but historical and cultural as well, as Narva, being founded by Dutch migrated from country to another before passing definitely to Estonia after it proclaimed its independence from the USSR in 1991. However, as we say in Ukraine, it doesn’t mean that the USSR left Narva. The Soviet Heritage can be seen not only in the architecture of Narva (and all over Estonia in general), but in the mentality of its aging population. All I can say is that as Ukrainian I found it hard to communicate with the locals during the years of Euromaidan. It was truly incredible how people living for years in the EU can be loyal to Russia, Putin, Lenin and all the stuff that makes my guts turn.
Check out: 25 Years of Our Independence
Estonian government tries to make the gap between them and Russia larger by imposing the language requirements and a whole “naturalization” exam, which leads to another truly fantastic phenomenon: an exactly third part of Narva doesn’t have a citizenship. ANY citizenship. So, they have to live with the so-called grey passports and resent Estonia for being too strict with their demands. We hardly knew anyone whose native language was Estonian in the whole town.
Quite revealing of the whole spirit, isn’t it?
Politics and our personal views apart, the connection between Narva and Ivangorod – the name of Russian border town – is very tight not only due to numerous daily border crossings back and forth by locals and travelers, but also due to trafficking of gas and alcohol. No wonder why the taxi to any point in Narva cost no more than €2. Probably, the things have changed, but in 2013-2015 the whole smuggling thing was still very present.
Contrary to what the locals tend to say, the government takes care of Narva and the whole region of Ida-Viruuma. We witnessed a lot of construction works and in two years Narva changed a lot and got much more European look. Apart from general construction works, the government made a lot of efforts to attract tourism by repairing and creating new infrastructure as well as restoring some historic sites to make them possible to attend. Even if the local sights might not be as spectacular as the Eiffel Tower or Coliseum in Rome, you see them differently as soon as you understand the complicated history of Narva and that of Estonia in general.
The Herman Tower
Celebrating Estonian Independence
What to see in Narva?
With a correct approach to Narva, you will be surprised to discover that despite its somewhat dull look, this town can be in fact charming. We’ll do our best to make you feel it too. Let’s start our tour in Narva, shall we?
Hermann Castle & Ivangorod Fortress
The most obvious starting point, but I can tell you one thing for sure that despite seeing a huge number of castles and fortresses (and we lived in England with a castle in every town, so we know what we are talking about), this duo of castles offers a truly unique view. The fortress on the Russian side was built on the distance just enough for an arrow to reach the Hermann Castle, finished just a century earlier.
Jesus’ baptism taking place on 19th January in Orthodox tradition
Heavily damaged during the war, Hermann Castle now is completely restored, inside it has a permanent exhibition on Narva history. It also regularly hosts various events and is an obligatory passage for every visitor.
The best view on the two castles is from the island in the Narva River. We loved coming there in summer and eating strawberries while lying on the grass. While walking down, make sure to pay attention to the Swedish lion statue, a gift from Sweden acknowledging its former influence on Narva, which used to belong to it before being conquered by Peter the Great during the Great Northern War.
Bastions
Where there is a castle, there must also be bastions and even if they were added much later than the Castle and turned to be, truth to be said, quite useless for the city defense. Still, they form the outlines of the city center, some of them serve as the hiding places for empty bottles and the location of another was used for building a Shopping Centre called Fama, after the bastion in question. Shortly after we left Narva, the biggest bastion Victoria opened its casemates for visiting.
Fama is one of our most frequented places :D
Exploring the Bastions as a part of my Narva Guide examination
Upper & Lower Promenades with the Dark Garden
One of our favorite places in the town, mainly due to its proximity to our home, was the Upper promenade with the Dark Gardens. Nothing really dark in those gardens except for the cute bats, that represent the biggest part of the species population Estonia. You can see the tiny bats’ houses on the trees! Recently, they built a new Lower promenade, which quickly became one of the most favorite spots of the locals. All this with an amazing view on Narva River and Ivangorod on the Russian side.
Check out: Winter Postcards From Estonian Winter
Town Hall & College
To understand Narva’s history and architecture look, I would recommend taking a guide, who will point out the details of this curious duo of the Town Hall (restored almost from the scratch after the WWII) and the College, whose architectural project was called Rain. Narva College of the University of Tartu is also a very recent addition to the city, which immediately boosted its cultural life (those Jazz evenings every month…), but it also has an awesome café inside, called Muna – “egg” in Estonian. Like any novelty in any town, it wasn’t happily received by the Narvians, though I can’t imagine the town without it.
Railway Station Area + Cathedrals
Since our first time in Narva, I liked particularly the whole area around the railway station without being able to explain what exactly made it so charming. Probably the dwelling houses hidden in the nature, probably the faint traces of history, as the railway station building was made of the bricks coming from the ruined churches.
While walking your way to the railway station, you will pass by two cathedrals, standing exactly one in front of the other – Alexander’s Cathedral belonging to the Lutheran church and offering a beautiful view from its tower and Resurrection Cathedral – the one of the Russian Orthodox Church with its typical rounded domes.
Of course you won’t miss the building that used to be a water-tower, but which now is the most noticeable building of the town.
Kreenholm area
Probably according to Narva standards, Kreenholm must be considered as very far from the city centre, but it would be a shame if you skipped it. Initially Kreenholm is an island with quite a strong waterfall, whose force was used first for mills, then factories and the most recently – the textile manufacture, which was shut down not long time ago after being one of the major textile producers of the Russian Empire and the USSR. This building must be seen. A splendid and a bit sad monument to the glorious past. Around Kreenholm you can see some beautiful houses in the similar Industrial England style to the factory itself, as well as a gorgeous hospital building with a somewhat disturbing inscription “In honor of 300 years of the Romanov dynasty reign”. I say disturbing because several years after this 300 years milestone they reigned no more… It’s also in this area that is situated another border crossing to Russian side, reserved only for pedestrians. We liked this whole area and always enjoyed cycling through those quiet streets.
Check out: Best of Industrial England
Kreenholm Textile Manufacture
Harbor
Harbor is probably a too pompous word, but there is a tiny harbor on the riverbank. It has a totally different atmosphere than the rest of the town with somewhat maritime vibes. We happened to be there mainly for the Club RoRo – another epicenter for the local youth.
Outside Narva
Narva-Jõesuu
Less than 20 km from Narva, and here we are at the local sea resort Narva-Jõesuu. Impossible to count how many times we came here by bicycle to meet yet another glorious sunset. All possible colors of sky and water, none ever failed to surprise us again and again with their beauty. The coast is very shallow, which means that in winter the see gets frozen and in summer regardless northern Estonian climate the water can heat up to be enjoyable for swimming. We also much enjoyed the local spa centers like Noorus or Meresuu and thick pine forest. Beware of the mosquitos in summer though! On the way to Narva-Jõesuu one passes by German Military Cemetery – seeing it so far East always produced a very strange feeling.
One of dozens of those amazing beach sunsets with our salsa classes and swimming afterwards
Venice of Narva
If you look on the map south from Kreenholm you might see the lines of channels created for the power plant needs. It’s easy to guess that they would be called the Venice of Narva and even if it has nothing in common with the real Venice, it is charming in its rural way with what looks to be a separate society living in the garages and using old rusty boats as water transport. As far as I know, there is a big part of illegal possessions of these water properties, but cycling around and finishing the walk close to what used to be the third border crossing was really nice. A very special surrounding, nothing to add.
View on Russia
Äkkekula Park
A large green space for all kinds of sports, including the skiing in winter, jogging and cycling in summer. Basically, it’s just a large park, but nothing in Narva is “just something” for us.
Check out: Skiing in Norway: Voss and Myrkdalen
The place where we learnt skiing
Ivangorod
Ivangorod is a natural part of Narvian landscape. These two towns are inseparable and we’ll hope that one day the duo of Narva & Ivangorod castles will be included in the UNESCO list. Visiting Narva won’t feel complete without going to Ivangorod too, even though it is far from being the most picturesque town of Russia. I will be honest with you by saying that we found it quite shocking, especially keeping in mind that Ivangorod is the largest entrance point to Russia from the EU. Apparently, Russian Grandeur stays only on the geopolitical level without actually having any impact on its population. Still, we enjoyed seeing Narva from “the other side” and visiting the Fortress that we used to contemplate every day.
Don’t forget to check whether Russia requires a visa for your citizenship.
Impossible to pass by this lock system
As Narva citizens like to joke, they have two beautiful options for dacha – Tallinn and St. Petersburg. That’s why we had a surprisingly high activity on CouchSurfing with all travelers and cyclists on their way to or from Russian cultural capital. Which we also fully enjoyed during our years in Estonia.
Bought in Estonia, this bicycle is still travelling with us everywhere! And God only knows how many times we cycled and ran on this cycling track outside the town.
More of Narva
Writing this article was a huge pleasure. Studying the map and recalling the names made dust off so many memories… Thank you for visiting Narva with us. 😊 By the way, all the places mentionned in this article can be found on the map under this link.
Late but fascinating, it is beautiful and so does the cat… Thanks for sharing your trip… I am curious what goes planning just a trip?
Thank you! It wasn’t just a trip, it was 2 years of expatriation. Not sure I got your question though…
I am currently living in Tallinn and I want to go to Narva for a weekend. I don’t have a car, so I will rely on public transport. I am planning to take the bus from Tallinn to Rakvere. Then head to Narva where I will get half day. Stay overnight in Narva and go back to Tallinn in the last bus or train on the 2nd day. The places I want to see are Toila park, Valaste waterfall and cliff, Narva-Joesuu sea resort for beaches, Kohtla-Jarve-Nomme artificial mountains for sunsets and sunrises. I think Peipus lake is too far and better to visit from Tartu. Are the above things possible on a weekend or do I need more time? What are the things I could perhaps take out? Thanks!
We just visited Narva (2024 May). The castle was the big highlight. It’s fully renovated now (only outside still ongoing renovation). Perfect combination between modern museum and old/rebuilt castle. Severe lack of visitors though. Only 2-3 others in the entire castle – on a Sunday! The river promenade is also very nice. Narva-Joesuu reminds us of Jurmala, Latvia. Ie a seaside paradise :)) But, again no people, but this was a Monday pre-swimming seasons, so understandable.
Hi Jan-Petter!
Thus I realized that it’s been almost ten years since we left Narva! Your news from the town touched my heart. Narva-Joesuu indeed looks like Jurmala, and its lack of crowds is precisely the thing I loved the most about it. Hope you had a great time in Estonia!
V.