September 2019
Rennes has for a long time been hidden in a shadow of its neighbor Saint-Malo in terms of tourist interest, but things are changing rapidly. Recently, Rennes made it to the list of the most comfortable places to live in France and, once you visit the capital of Brittany, it becomes very clear why. Green parks, splendid and diverse architecture, excellent infrastructure while preserving an awesome medieval city centre – Rennes has it all, and in this post we’ll give you all the details about what to do in Rennes if you come as a tourist.
Rue Rallier du Baty
Visiting the Medieval City Centre of Rennes
Every proper visit of any town starts with its old city centre, and Rennes is no exception. Despite ravaging fires common for the mediaeval towns, Rennes still has 286 timbered houses, which is one of the biggest numbers of such architecture in France, along with Strasbourg and Rouen. Each of these houses has its unique façade and some very beautiful and sometimes funny details – looking for them is a great fun. The old centre of Rennes is not very big and is easily covered on foot, but as a true mediaeval town, its web of streets is quite complex. Don’t hesitate to turn from the bigger streets to see some less obvious lanes.
Even if the old centre is cute in its whole, make sure to pass by these spots:
- Rue du Chapitre, rue de Dames, rue Saint Georges and rue Rallier du Baty – for the true medieval streets as we love them.
- Place du Champ-Jacquet – one of the most famous and easily recognizable squares of Rennes.
- Place Sainte-Anne and place des Lices – vibrant and always crowded squares with dozens of cafés and little restaurants. The atmosphere by night is crazy!
- Portes Mordelaises – one of the few vestiges of the XV century ramparts, which used to be the main entrance to Rennes. Very symbolic place in the history of Brittany.
These hermines mean the building is under renovation. Love such attention to the details!
Place du Champ-Jacquet
Food shopping in the incredible Marché des Lices
The food market Marché des Lices is a signature place of Rennes. It happens every Saturday morning and is a true delight for all of human senses. Markets have always been an authentic experience and a culture must in any country, but a market in France is a totally different level, I think you agree with that. Now, imagine a market, which is considered as one of the biggest and most beautiful ones in France! It is worth a visit, isn’t it?
On Marché des Lices you will find not only the classics like fruit and vegetables, but also some spécialités bretonnes like a mind-blowing variety of seafood, oysters locally farmed in Cancale and typical Breton pastry Kouign Amann. Don’t forget to taste a sausage in a crêpe from one of the dozens of the food-trucks!
Artichocks are massively grown in Brittany
Tasting the crêpes, galettes or both
Actually, the question is rather if it is possible to eat anything beside the crêpes in Rennes at all. (The answer is yes and we’ll soon get to it.) However, being in Brittany and not having a crêpe for lunch is unthinkable.
Let’s use correct definitions though. When one refers to a savory crêpe, it’s called galette, and crêpe is used for desserts. The stuffing knows no limit, starting with regular ham and cheese and ending up with the scallops flambé in a cider sauce. Make sure you try a crêpe with typical salted butter caramel – it’s divine!
It won’t take long before you realize how many of crêperies there are in Rennes, as well as the foodtrucks serving the basic classics like galette-saucisse. One of those topped with onion and cheese can actually make you hold for the next 24 hours. Don’t deny yourself this pleasure and don’t leave Rennes without a galette or two – not that it was possible.
Galette-making on the Marché des Lices
However, we still have some nice restaurant recommendations that not involve any galettes. As we live in Normandy, we use any occasion to eat something different. Therefore, this time we ate delicious tapas in La Clara and Loco Loca (they have some incredible cocktails too!) – the best reminder of the tapas fiesta in San Sebastián and pizza in La Tomate.
Discovering the remarkable architecture of Rennes
Indeed, the timbered houses is not the only point of interest of the Old Town of Rennes. In fact, Rennes combines various architectural styles as the medieval dwellings and splendid Gothic cathedrals get gradually replaced by the XVII century buildings, art nouveau and art déco manors (or even a swimming pool like Piscine Saint-Georges), and some truly interesting modern houses right out of the city centre. Not that we were big connoisseurs of the architecture, but the difference and diversity are quite striking. Especially between the paved streets with timber houses and Place de la Mairie with the town hall, Opéra and a beautiful perspective on the Palais du Commerce.
Rue de Bastard
Opéra de Rennes
Splendid Art-Nouveau lines
Old and new contrast
Visiting the Palais du Parlement de Bretagne
It won’t be an exaggeration to tell that Parlement de Bretagne is the most iconic building of Rennes. Founded in 1554, it witnessed centuries of “justice being made” and despite its modest and sober exterior is splendid inside. It can be visited with the guided tour only, which you can book at the Tourism Office of Rennes. By the way, it still functions as the Rennes’ Court of Appeal. Would you like to have your workplace look like that?
Relaxing in Parc du Thabor
Parc du Thabor is a massive park located right in the center of Rennes. It used to be just a small garden for the monks from the Saint-Melaine Abbey, but over time it grew bigger and bigger before its size overpassed 10 hectares. It comprises gardens with almost a thousand of rose varieties alone, a birdhouse, various greenhouse and some magnificent statues copied from the ones standing in Versailles. We couldn’t help feeling a very bourgeois spirit in Parc du Thabor, which also adds it a certain charm. All that with beautiful manors and houses along its borders, and from certain angles Parc du Thabor makes think of Italy.
Cycling along the quays of Vilaine and Ille et Rance canals
If you have been following us for a while, then you might know how obsessed we are with cycling. Almost in every more or less big city we visit, there must be a point when we hopping on a bike and take off. Naturally, the same thing happened in Rennes.
While the old city centre of Rennes is perfect for walking on foot, its quays along Vilaine and the Canal d’Ille-et-Rance are made for cycling. Just as any large city of France, Rennes has a great net of bike share services that cost very little but are incredibly helpful and loved by all the inhabitants. Just search for Vélo Star and have your bank card to buy your ticket.
I still believe that cycling is the best way to get the most of every town, to explore it beyond tourist circuit and to get rid of some of those galettes.
Enjoying the nightlife of Rennes
Rennes has a huge student community of almost 70 000 people, which makes almost a whole third of the total population of the city. Of course, the nightlife is bound to be vibrant in such a young town! Even if we were never particularly keen on staying until late in bars or pubs, just strolling on the evening streets of Rennes was enough to get the picture.
Small music bands, the smell of beer in the air and thousands of people on the streets – this was our first impression of Rennes as we arrived on Friday evening. Next morning in the daylight, we couldn’t recognize those very streets we were walking the night before – they were completely empty except for some occasional staggering groups of partiers, who had just finished their night. And while you’ll try to make your way through this celebration of life, you will most probably make several acquaintances even without any explicit intention from your part.
Learning about Brittany in Les Champs Libres
Les Champs Libres is a big culture space built in a former railway station. Today it houses city library, several museums and temporary expositions, the most famous of them are l’Espace des sciences – science museum, and le musée de Bretagne. We visited the latter to dive in the long history of Brittany starting with the Neolithic and up to our days. Even if the museum seems small at the first glance, it’s very rich on information, artefacts, documents and audio and video materials while staying light and entertaining at the same time. Still, at the end of the visit we were both very pleasantly exhausted. In one word, recommended.
By the way, if you are more an art person, then you shouldn’t miss the Beaux Art museum of Rennes.
Headdresses of Brittany
Exploring Street-Art of Rennes
When we crossed the city border of Rennes, the first thing we noticed was the huge amount of street-art, one better than the other. No matter where you are, you will stumble upon some masterpieces, especially if you venture beyond the old town, even if it has some of the street-art of its own.
So, this is our short digest to the things to do and to see in Rennes. We spent there a lovely weekend, enjoyed very good company, visited beautiful sights and cycled around 40 kilometers through each district of Rennes. It is a nice place for a city-break and after visiting it, we are not surprised at all that Rennes has such a huge demand among Parisians. As it takes no more than two hours to get to Rennes by high-speed train from Paris, it makes Rennes a great place for a weekend holiday or even a place to live on a daily basis.
If you search for more authentic Breton atmosphere, stay tuned as more articles about trips and escapades in Brittany are already on their way.
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