One of the most popular tourist destination in France is the Basque country, whose biggest part is in Spain and only a small one in France. And it’s been so long that we were both dreaming to explore this place properly. In order to do it in a slow travel mode we came up with a plan to take our bikes in a train to the starting point – Hendaye, and little by little move up the coast until Bayonne and then catch a train to come back. Very convenient as the distance between the cities is short. So, let’s go!

Overall, we stayed three days and two nights in the area, but I wish we had had some more time for a proper visit of the villages around, let alone the Spanish part of the Basque Country…

Riding a bike in the Basque Country was great, almost every town has a good cycling infrastructure; however, outside the city the pleasure is doubtful. Despite the short distance between the cities (no more than 15-20 km) riding through the hills might be a bit difficult for the inexperienced cyclists.

Camping for us, please! As we travelled off-season, we had a luxury of a completely empty beach, where we could put our tent – do not repeat in the high season though. In Hendaye we camped on the edge of the beach near the cliffs, and the second day we slept near Saint-Jean-de-Luz on the beach Lafitenia, which was empty as well, except for several surfers. Beauty and freedom.

The Basque country – is a relatively small territory. All the postcards sold in this region constantly remind us about the fact that the shape of the Basque Country looks like a heart. Its biggest part lays in Spain, and only a tiny piece – in France. The Basques had been living there long time before the Spanish or French speaking their own language that has nothing in common with the roman ones and there exist even some wild theories claiming that the Basques are the alternative result of a human evolution. I swear that we haven’t noticed anything that can betray this. ;) As everyone in these cases, the Basques dream about their independence, that’s why the terrorist attacks, fights and scuffles used to be common over the last decades. However, the Basque country just stayed very autonomous.

Hendaye is a town on the French-Spanish border, which means that everyone fluently speaks here three languages. We have a special love towards the border towns, exiting the railway station and seeing the road sign “Spain” – how cool is that?

First of all we took a boat to Hondarribia. No matter where you are in the Basque country, everything is so perfectly clean. Not a single cigarette butt, not a single paper hanging around. All the houses are freshly painted, everything shines. The Basques still build the houses in their traditional style, even the modern multi storied buildings keep some elements like wooden red balconies and white facades with the signs written in their “own police”.

Charming old town, picturesque promenade…

We recommend to ride/walk along the coast to the western edge of the city to the harbor and then to go up to the lighthouse Faro de Higuer.
Needless to say that it’s not possible to spend there less than an hour. Unlike the Mediterranean, the Atlantic coast is never hot and dry. Just lay down and listen to the sounds of the Ocean…

We came back to Hendaye by the road, and it was a bitter mistake due to the heavy traffic and busy roads. Stick to the boat, will you?

Morning on the beach of Hendaye…

In the morning through the fields and the hills, we went to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

But all the beauty started even before the town – in Socoa. There is a huge sea wall that separates the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz from the Ocean that means that no matter how strong the storm is, the bay remains calm and peaceful.

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is famous for the fact that the wedding of Louis XIV with the Spanish princess took place there. The “main” sights of the town are the houses where both of them were waiting for the ceremony, and the church, in which the main entrance was walled up afterwards for no one else could ever pass after the King. Today the entire square near Louis’s house is full of little cafés. The town itself is pure aesthetic pleasure. The atmosphere of the authentic harbor is marvellous, it’s just so easy to imagine how it used to be many years ago with all the sailors shouting, the seagulls chasing the fish, the squeaking sound of the boats swinging on the waves.

By happy chance we bumped into a training/competition of the Basque national game Pelote. Pelote is similar to squash, but just have a look what they play with! We were lucky to assist to the game free of charge, have a look if you pass by the avenue André Ithuraldenear Carrefour market, and maybe you’ll be lucky as well. All our stops are mentioned on the map in the itinerary section!

Biarritz differs a lot from the other cities of the Basque Country. Long time ago it was a poor village, where because of the stormy ocean and cliffs on the shore it was impossible to build a harbour. Till one day when the Empress claimed that this town is exactly what she needs for her “holidays”. Thus, Biarritz turned into the favorite vacation spot for the aristocrats and other bourgeois with the corresponding prices, architecture and mentality. In order to match with the trend on authenticity, Biarritz strives to underline its Basque origin.

Gorgeous Haussmann houses are followed by the huge hotels for holidays, small Basque houses and other modern constructions. The center is full of boutiques and fashionable stores.

The nature is gorgeous though. Marvellous cliffs, sunny beaches. The surfers hanging around in the city giving to Biarritz its special touch. We saw Biarritz both rainy and sunny, but it stays charming in its own way. Truth to be said, it’s not the place where I’d like to spend my holidays every year, as many people do.

Our train departed from Bayonne – a real Basque town this time. We didn’t have too much time, but the town is cute and has a true Basque spirit. Every year Bayonne hosts a five-day festival – Fêtes de Bayonne that looks like a thing to see being the biggest festival of France.

When there is an occasion, we’ll definitely continue to explore the Basque Country – there are so many little villages to be seen, like Espelette, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle or Ascain, let alone the whole Spanish side.

Don’t forget to check our article What to Eat in the Basque Country!

If you have any questions, drop us a line in the comments :)