Turenne is the only village on this list that isn’t in Lot, but in Corrèze—a neighboring department. Since we started our trip by visiting a friend near Vichy, Turenne was the first stop on our way down to the south. An outsider, but a beautiful one!

Here, I want to include a few photos of our campsite—Les Granges. Although accommodation is rarely our top priority (unlike food!), we do try to find somewhere nice whenever we’re staying for more than a night. Les Granges was the perfect spot—surrounded by nature, peaceful, and lushly green—just what we needed. The only downside, though unrelated to the campsite itself, was the mosquitoes. We ended up seriously arming ourselves with sprays, nets, and other repellents. Other than that, it was one of those camping experiences that warms us during the cold winter months.

The next day began with a visit to Carennac, which I think was my favorite village of the entire trip. Although they all look as if they’ve come straight out of a fairy tale, Carennac’s rooftops, narrow streets, and the riverside promenade completely charmed both of us. After exploring Carennac, we cycled a bit more around the area, though our energy was running low—courtesy of mosquitos and a sleepless night.

On the third day, we packed our bicycles into the van and left the campsite—it was time to move on. Our final destination was a campsite in Figeac, but there were several stops to make along the way, one of them being Loubressac. As you can see from our photos, the weather wasn’t exactly on our side during the trip, and that particular morning didn’t offer the best conditions for exploring. Still, the view of Loubressac from the road was fantastic, although our camera couldn’t quite capture its full beauty.

Under a capricious sky, undecided about whether to rain or not, we arrived in Autoire. One of the challenges in describing places like the villages of Lot is that after a while, it’s easy to run out of words. Yes, they’re all charming, with incredibly old and beautiful cathedrals or other historical landmarks, and they’re always a joy to explore. Yet somehow, we’re always inspired to see more. Sketching helps a lot—taking the time to draw what we see is the best way to truly connect with a place and appreciate its beauty on a deeper level.

Out of all the places we visited during our five days in Lot, Cardaillac impressed us the least. Although it’s also listed among “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France,” I struggled to understand how it made the cut. However, it might also be the most authentic. In Cardaillac, we came across those quintessential “old-school” scenes one expects from France—an old bicyclette, an elderly man in a beret reading his newspaper at a local café. In short, Cardaillac had that nostalgic, charming vibe of old France that everyone loves.

One of the best parts of road trips is the food breaks, and thankfully, France is perfect for these summer picnics. Visiting Lot means indulging in the delicious cuisine of the southwest, with duck breast, Rocamadour cheese, fresh baguettes with the perfect crust, and plenty of local wine and fruits. Over the five days, we only ate out twice (in Martel and Carennac), but nothing beats those spontaneous picnics in the middle of nowhere.

In the evening we put our new base for the following two nights in Figeac but before diving into the town, there was the last village on our list to visit. Capdenac-le-Haut. Although we weren’t smitten, I loved the ride on the countryside roads – it was short but quite an exhausting one. The main conclusion after this whole trip is not to trust google maps for bicycle rides, as I have already mentioned above. However, we didn’t learn the lesson from the first try. 😀 Despite these rides being somewhat challenging physically, I still think it’s the best way to holiday in Lot. Had we been in our van all the time, all these villages would have transformed into a big messy potpourri of memories, whereas cycling to each of them gave us a purpose and a delicious feeling that we earned them. Capdenac was our last “award” and we took a good while to appreciate it.

Now, enough about villages—let’s get to the heavy hitters. First, I have to admit that I loved Figeac. I didn’t have any expectations, and, if I’m honest, I may have had some reservations due to my personal bias against mid-sized French towns. But Figeac was lovely, and it pleasantly surprised both of us.

The main reason for visiting, however, was the Champollion Museum, which completely blew us away. Named after Jean-François Champollion, the scholar who deciphered the Rosetta Stone and unlocked the secrets of ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs (Xavier often grumbles that the Rosetta Stone’s rightful place is NOT in London), the museum not only covers Champollion’s life and work but also explores the evolution of writing across various cultures. Fascinating. The museum’s layout is excellent, and the two hours we spent there flew by. We can’t recommend it highly enough.

Feeling like two somnambulists—such was the museum’s impact on us—we wandered through the streets of Figeac. Even in that dazed state of exhilaration, we couldn’t help but notice how beautiful the town was.

However, the Champollion Museum wasn’t the only thing that amazed us on this trip. Believe it or not, Pech Merle moved me to literal tears. Due to Lot’s limestone geology—hence caves, grottes, and other fascinating places for geologists and speleologists alike—the region is rich in prehistoric human traces, and where there are human traces, there is… art. Unfortunately, this ancient art can easily be damaged without proper preservation, as was the case with France’s most famous cave, Lascaux, which has more than 600 parietal wall paintings and is now closed to the public.

At Pech Merle, however, we still have the rare opportunity to see not replicas, but the actual prehistoric paintings. For me, this was my first encounter with parietal art, and it was an overwhelming emotional experience—enough to bring me to tears. I felt a profound tenderness, awe, and admiration for our ancestors, who devoted so much time and effort to create something beautiful and eternal for the human timeline.

Please, don’t miss it, and be sure to book your tickets in advance, as the number of visitors allowed in the cave at one time is very limited.

Although the weather wasn’t on our side (again!) and despite having already visited Saint-Cirq-Lapopie in 2017, it was impossible not to stop for a quick visit before continuing on to our friend’s place in Cahors. Even under the rain and with muted colors, this village (of course on the list!) remains stunning. The numerous tourists and full parking lots only confirm this truth.

Our final stop: Cahors. The main reason for visiting Cahors was to see our friend and enjoy his barbecue, which didn’t take place after all – see my complaints about the weather. However, the next morning, we still ventured down from the hills for a short walk around the city, and we were in for a pleasant surprise! Somehow, I hadn’t kept a particularly favorable memory of this town—likely because of my bias against towns that are too big to be a village but too small to be a city. But this time, Cahors felt lively and well-maintained, and it moved several steps higher in our personal esteem (though how arrogant does that sound!). Naturally, we visited Cahors’s most iconic sight—the Pont Valentré—a true treat for any sketcher’s eye!

In short, we left Lot feeling pleasantly satisfied. Many things have changed since our last visit in 2017, including our own experience and perception, which made Lot feel both familiar and completely new to us. Once again, I’m reminded of just how insanely diverse and beautiful France is. Living here for six years has been an immense privilege and an incredible experience—not to mention all the cheese and wine we’ve consumed during that time!