September 2022
Just like Camargue, it’s been years that I’ve been dreaming about île de Ré. It has a reputation of one of the absolute must-visits of France, but our path had never brought us geographically close enough for a proper visit of the region. Until recently, when Xavier found a new job that allowed us to travel to several unexpected destinations in France. I like it when the dreams come true in such an unplanned way. As my Mom was visiting us at that moment, we brought her along for this improvised road-trip with a final destination in Angoulême.
Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré
Four hours drive from Toulouse isn’t the thing we are ready to do on a regular basis, but the moment we crossed the bridge connecting La Rochelle with the île de Ré, I knew it would be worth it. And it was! Fresh air from the ocean, a light breeze – that was a big change after the heat of Toulouse. For the future reference: the year 2022 was not apocalyptic only because of the war, but also due to the longest and the most unbearable heatwave, we have ever experienced in France. So far.
Loix
Those who know us, know as well that we use every opportunity to jump on a bike. And île de Ré is a true paradise for cycling. My hands are itching with desire to compare it to Amsterdam or Copenhagen but even if a small touristic island in France can’t really be put in the same line with large European capitals, I felt almost as happy and acknowledged as a cyclist as I did in Denmark. Anyway, I’m not really sure that there is a better way to explore the island than by bicycle. It’s flat, small, it has an awesome cycling infrastructure and definitely wouldn’t have a capacity for a big car flow. Thank God.
We rented three bicycles directly at our camping (even though every second* business on the island is a bike rental!), two regular and one e-bike for my Mom who doubted whether she was fit enough for 70 km of cycling. It was a perfect arrangement, even if, quite frankly speaking, the quality of the bikes has “the room for improvement”. Luckily, île de Ré doesn’t have any tricky relief to require a serious gear.
*This data is based on my eyes only!
The thing I loved the most is that just like in countries with highly developed cycling culture, on the île de Ré you see all kinds of bicycles! Tandems, cross-country, e-bikes, folding bikes and even tricycles – it felt like Zootopia. Just for bikes.
On the first day of our visit, we cycled to the extreme west of the island – I kept the order of towns in the article! Yes, here comes another promise that one day I will learn to draw maps and itineraries in Illustrator and will bring this blog to yet another level. But not today.
Ars-en-Ré
Ile de Ré fully met my expectations – little white houses, as if someone smashed them in order to achieve similar height all over the island, doors and windows of very specific shades of green and a disturbingly distinct smell of money. Sorry for breaking the conversational taboos but there are places that are inaccessible for regular wallets and you know it. Last time I had this feeling in Arcachon.
What particularly fascinated me there is that people, be it tourists like us or, god help me, locals, all played along in the aesthetics game choosing a perfect outfit to match with the style of île de Ré. It felt like something compulsory – you don’t go to a Michelin restaurant in a worn-out pair of jeans, so why would you choose something similar for île de Ré?
Phare des Baleines
Our ambitions for the île de Ré were very simple – cycling, photographing, eating oysters and swimming. I’m happy to report that everything happened just the way we wanted. The food was amazing even if we struggled to find a restaurant with available seats, and in the end of the day, when we reached the Phare des Baleines, it was a perfect time for washing out the day’s fatigue in the Atlantic waves.
Sometimes, at moments like that one, I realize how like we were to live several years so close to the sea. I hope Cherbourg wouldn’t be our last time with a seaside life.
Salt is another specialty of île de Ré, and across the island close to the salt farms one can find many small self-service shops. Naturally, we couldn’t leave the island without our own salt from île de Ré (even if it can be bought in every supermarket everywhere in the country), but our enthusiasm was hard to stop, so we ended up with four cans of salt with pepper, herbs and whatnot, salty sweets, salty sauces and a pack of algae pasta. Best food shopping ever.
Sainte-Marie-de-Ré
We spent two nights in a lovely camping Huttopia – they definitely have a style. A big stylish safari tent for four at the foothill of a dune, it was our first time in something like that even if we are quite experienced campers! Everything would have been perfect had it not been for a quarrel with a neighboring tent who claimed we had damaged their car (which we hadn’t), but that’s a different story.
On the second day our plan was to visit the bigger towns not far from the camping, keeping the fingers crossed for the available parking spaces, and then keep going to our final destination with a stop in La Rochelle.
Saint-Martin-de-Ré
First, we went to Saint-Martin-de-Ré famous for its Vauban bastions, which were as cool as we imagined them. On that day, the town held a festival with food tents, music and games, so it was quickly decided where we’d have our lunch. Lovely place full of light and life. We even managed to see a donkey in trousers – l’âne culotté – a local tradition, according to which farmers dressed their donkeys in pants for them not to be bitten by insects.
Flotte
Finally, our last stop on the île de Ré was Flotte. Please, isert here my rent about “the most beautiful villages of France”, because this town is one of them. Totally deserved, nothing to add, except perhaps an insanely delicious ice-cream near the harbor.
La Rochelle
La Rochelle… Just the mere name sounds like music. I was so happy to having finally come her. However, I’m afraid I fell to the eternal trap of expectations-reality. Even if objectively, (though can beauty be objective?) La Rochelle is a splendid town with amazing architecture, rich history and many interest points, I felt somewhat disappointed. Probably because of the beauty overdose, you know, when you are drown in something new and beautiful and your brain needs some time to process, or maybe because unlike île de Ré, La Rochelle felt too crowded, I didn’t appreciate it as much as it deserved. Probably next time, if we happen to be here off-season.
Chaillon sur Plage
This whole trip took place in the middle of September, however, it was still very hot. By very hot I mean +33C and up to +36C. Yes, the global warming and the climate disaster are yet to hit in their fullest, but it was already enough to melt us completely. This is why a stop on the beach was mandatory. Years go by, but I still think that jumping into the sea is one of the greatest joys of being alive.
Angoulême
Here comes the last stop of this four-day trip. Angoulême. The star of the recent Wes Anderson’s movie “The French Dispatch”, as well as of the book I use to teach French, I never actually thought I’d have an occasion to go there. Still, here we are, my second time in Angoulême this year. A very beautiful city and the capital of the Charente department. The social contrast with the seaside towns is strong, still Angoulême was my love from the first sight and the second visit did nothing but confirm it. Even if the main attraction of Angoulême is its Graphic Novel Festival, I personally loved it first of all for its très français vibe and a postcard harmony of the architecture. No wonder Wes Anderson chose it for his movie!
I wish the light had been better for photos though. Maybe next time!
It’s all for now. I do hope to be back in the region to explore more of Charente and Charente-Maritime, visit the worldwide famous Fort Boyard (is there a person in the world who wasn’t traumatized by the spiders in Fort Boyard?!), eat more oysters on the île d’Oléron and drink some Cognac in Cognac for that matter. Stay tuned!
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