October 2023

I love France, I really do, but at some point, tired of French villages and fromage platters, my wanderlust was tugging me towards something fresh, exciting and NEW. The trouble was that I don’t like travelling without Xavier, and whenever I happen to travel alone (like that unexpected stopover in Chisinau), I start immediately dreaming about coming back with my travel and life partner. Moreover, as at the moment we try to be mindful of our air travels preferring saving them for two-weeks trips at the least. So, after some pondering, Dublin seemed like the perfect compromise. Xavier had his fair share of Irish adventures during his student days, and it’s just a short plane ride from Toulouse and well, you know how those Ryanair offers work. Here am I, on a plane to the country I’ve never been before, with a friend I’ve never seen before either.

Day 0: Arriving to Dublin

I will be honest – I had close to zero expectations from Dublin. I was ready to the fact that due to unfortunate historical reasons, it would share many similarities with average-sized British towns. But frankly, that was totally fine with me. I was in fact looking forward to seeing those Georgian brick houses once more. My acquaintance with Dublin started with its beautiful quay and Samuel Beckett’s Bridge. Almost immediately, we passed by the Famine Memorial, which is amazing and terrifying at the same time – a sobering reminder that I shouldn’t probably compare the UK with Ireland despite the possible temptation.

Accommodation

Couple of words about our accommodation in Dublin. Apparently, everybody except myself was aware that Dublin counts among the most expensive European capitals. Why I didn’t know about this? No idea. While we managed to keep most expenses in check, accommodation ended up being the big spender, even with our (relatively)  early-bird research. Finally, here’s where we stayed:

Dublin: Butlers Townhouse ~195 € /night (I’m crying), 2.6 km from centre (we walked a lot alright) but overall a nice place.

Galway: St Judes ~140 € / night. 1.5 km from the centre. A family owned B&B with a very personal touch. We loved it.

Day 1: Exploring Dublin

Dublin. I haven’t been to a “girlfriends-cityscape” since my trip to Barcelona. A lot has changed since then, and in 2023, my stamina for those epic 20 km-per-day jaunts isn’t what it used to be. So visiting a new city with usual 20 km-per day itineraries was this time a big challenge for me. If I had been alone, I would have definitely hired a bicycle, but at the end of the day, I managed to walk through every ordeal. Anyway, our first day’s program in Dublin was quite charged. I am not a big fan of thousands of things per day, always preferring a slow travel mode, but, alas, this option is not always available.

National Library

Our first stop was the National Library. While entry was free, accessing their exquisite reading room required a membership card. Instead, we opted for a small exhibition showcasing prominent figures of Irish literature, open to all.

Trinity College

One of the rare things I knew about Dublin before coming here was Trinity College (mainly thanks to Sally Rooney’s books), but it’s hard to overestimate my love for all real places mentioned in fiction. Therefore, I was very happy to see what it is in the real life. Unsurprisingly, this was also the most crowded spot of the town, as apparently everybody loves Sally Rooney’s books. On a more serious note, it’s on the Trinity College territory is situated the Long Library Room, that appears on every top-10 things to do in Dublin. My luck let me down this time, as 90% of the books happened to be under restauration. This is why we decided against visiting it this time… I hope that you’ll have better luck.

National Gallery of Ireland

Even if I’m not much into fine arts (which is ironic, considering that I draw and paint a bit myself), I couldn’t miss the National Gallery of Ireland. While it may not rival the likes of the Louvre in size, it’s certainly worth a dedicated day of visit, especially for art enthusiasts. In London I used to visit such museums in segments, the fact the entrance is free, unless one wants to contribute, allows not forcing oneself to see every inch of every hall, but actually enjoy it.

Bookshops

Cleverly, I traveled with the smallest bag Ryanair cheapest fare allowed; otherwise, I am scared to imagine all the books I might have bought as souvenirs. For a book-junkie, Dublin definitely has some treasures to offer, I will even admit that I spent much more time in the beautiful bookstore “Hodges Figgis” than in the National Gallery. My heart beats faster whenever I think of all those books waiting for their run.

Streets of the Old Centre

No cityscape blog post is complete without the obligatory “explore the old center” point. And explore, we did! 😊

Castle

The longer we wandered Dublins streets, the more convinced I became that quick cityscapes arent my cup of tea. It took us a year to properly see in London everything we wanted to see. Xavier and I visited Paris a good handful of times, each time dedicating our entire weekend to one district only. So towards Dublin I feel something like a shameful regret. As if I let down my proper values and hence this beautiful city.

Pubs & Temple Bar

Even if I am no a beer fan, I do miss the conviviality of a good pub. I was therefore happy to go back to this joyous atmosphere where you have to scream to be heard by your friend. I didn’t dare to taste Guinness – the visiting card of Ireland, as I knew it wouldnt have ended well. We both drank liters of cider instead. They say that tastes might change with time, we’ll see about that. By the way, Brazen Head is said to be Ireland’s oldest pub. No idea if it’s true, but I do recommend it for its inviting ambiance.

Day 2: Howth

On the second day there was quite a change of weather, so we decided to use it for a quick trip and hike at the seaside. We hopped on a train headed for Howth, a charming peninsula to the northeast of Dublin. Fortunately, its an easy ride with Dart trains directly servicing Howth—no need for a detour to the central railway station or anything of the sort. The plan was simple: a little hike, some quality time by the sea, and indulging in fresh seafood. Im pleased to report that we executed it flawlessly.

However, what we both did find surprising – the amount of people who, like us, decided that a sunny Sunday should be spent at the seaside. In the beginning I said that Xavier used to live some time in Dublin, so he often went to Howth for a nature break. He had a hard time believing that the walking trails were literally crowded –  I felt like I was in a rush-hour subway car rather than the great outdoors. Tourism gets everywhere (she wrote on her travel blog lol).

I’ve already complained about the prices, but they hit again when it was time to eat. In France there is a big oysters culture, so I got used to a certain level of prices for twelve oysters + wine. I was NOT ready to pay 3€ for a single oyster. Usually, when we travel somewhere, going back to France might be a bit painful, as the cost of living here is higher than in the majority of European countries. With Dublin it would be the other way round.

Day 3: Dublin ➔ Galway

The next day was a big one. We were leaving Dublin and going to Galway, a town on the West coast of the island. I was very excited to take the train and leave the capital. As it is often the case, the capital does not represent the country in its whole, so I expected to see something very different in Galway. 

Guinness Storehouse

En route to the railway station, we passed by some of Dublins key landmarks, like St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Guinness Storehouse. Due to our less-than-enthusiastic stance on beer, we didnt even consider a visit although it is one of the must-have experiences in Dublin. Nonetheless, I must confess, the building itself is a sight to behold!

Although I complain about the prices all the time, train ticket fares came as a pleasant surprise – 15€ for a 2h20 trip between Dublin and Galway is a very honest rate – I was ready for much worse scenarios. Besides, the trains were perfect too, and the trip passed quickly and smoothly.

Galway

The biggest part of the day we spent in Galway – it’s a very small town with a tiny center, but its music culture was something awesome. Ages ago on the Isle of Man we happened to enter a pub, where a band was playing some Celtic tunes. I remember how captivated I was by those musicians. In Galway we were lucky to live something similar – we entered a pub for our already traditional pint of cider and stayed until the last note faded—a truly heartwarming moment.

Day 4: Cliffs of Moher

I think everybody would agree that one doesn’t really visit Ireland for its cities – it’s the nature people come to this island. This is why the day we were supposed to go to the Cliffs of Moher was something I was very looking forward to. Of course, when organizing this trip I bitterly regretted not having our own car – a road-trip in Ireland sounds like a dream! Instead we had to manage with the local buses. Admittedly, there was no trouble whatsoever to find one, and just like trains it was nice and comfortable. However, we passed through so much beauty that I would have loved to stop at some of those places for a picture…

On the day of our Cliffs of Moher adventure, the weather decided to play tricks on us. Instead of the glorious sunshine wed been enjoying for the past two days, we got… well, youve seen the pics. Lets just say, it was not what we signed up for. Sure, the forecast mentioned clouds, but it failed to mention the thick mist that would completely cover the cliffs. Two hours on a bus to stare at a blank canvas and I don’t even talk about people who came all the way from Dublin (I don’t know why they chose such an inhumane itinerary, tbh). Well, it was the way it was, so we embarked on our small hiking trip seeing nothing beyond our noses. Luckily, two hours later, the mist started to slowly lift. I was never happier to see just a regular cloudy grey gloomy sky. 😀

It is all a matter of perception. Seeing something after seeing nothing was the best moment of the day and I’m not sure I would have been happier if we had had simply good weather from the start. I consider it as a very successful Irish experience.

Day 5: Galway Dublin. Departure

Before we hit the airport, we had a bit of time to wander along the quays, snapping pics in that misty, moody atmosphere, and of course, going on yet another bookshop raid. The perfect way to cap off this Dublin girls adventure.

So, there you have it – a snapshot of this short Irish escapade. I know Ireland deserves way more time – just peeking at the size of the guidebook gives you a hint. Ive bookmarked a ton of beautiful blog posts with all sorts of itineraries – who knows, maybe one day Ill be back, this time with wheels, ready to really dig into the heart of Ireland. For now, Ill kick back and happily rewatch some Father Ted. 🍀

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